To those of us who have the delight of calling Laura Buccellati a friend, it comes as no surprise that her foray into the world of designing luxury handbags would come so easily and garner such immediate, rave reviews. Her first collection is a sublime grouping of what she calls ‘forever bags’. Not a trend in sight, the designs are classic and they are made from the highest quality skins, like crocodile and lizard, meticulously hand-crafted via old world methods in Italy.
Of course the bags are exquisite. An eye for impeccable design is not only in Laura’s DNA — grandfather Mario and his unique designs founded the legendary Buccellati jewelry dynasty — but it also manifests in her personal style. A well-known face in Miami society, Laura oozes understated, refined glamour from every pore whether in jeans or haute couture; what the Italians call La Bella Figura, not only referring to beauty but to someone knowing the nuances of high quality and taste.
Laura’s late father Luca, the oldest of five Buccellati brothers, was sent to New York in the late 1950s to launch the jewelry and silver business. He was president and CEO of the United States operation and in the 1960s, opened the New York Buccellati store — the first Italian-owned business on Fifth Avenue. New York is where Laura was born and where her creative education began – at home. Armed with a master’s degree in international business, Laura is equipped to deal with business, but, as she recently discovered, design is where her passion truly lies.
DAISY: As a journalist I’m supposed to remain impartial but in this case, I can’t! The collection is to die!
LB: (Laughs) I’ve been obsessed with handbags from the time I was a little girl. My father gave me my first significant handbag when I was seven. I took it seriously, it was not a toy. He got it in Milan. It was rectangular calfskin and had my initials engraved on it. My collection started at that early age, then there was a small Gucci. I loved the range of textures and colors and was always searching for my next addition to the collection. Some of the most prized items in my own personal handbag collection today are vintage bags that my grandmother used. Like one made of elephant maybe from the 1920s. It’s an evening bag with paillets. Because of its quality there’s really no wear to it and that’s what I’m doing in my collection, because it’s quality it’s worth spending the money on a “forever bag”.
DAISY: When did this idea first hit you?
LB: This idea started over a year ago. I was in Italy and as I was looking at some beautiful Italian handbags, all of a sudden I thought, ‘this is something I need to pursue’. I thought I was going on vacation and it turned into a realization and a new business.
DAISY: You moved quickly. This should have taken a lot longer.
LB: I did! I found the manufacturer through a family contact in Italy, but for years I’d been taking mental notes no matter what bag I would see or buy. I would think ‘I could do better’ or ‘this is a great clasp’ or ‘what a great combination of colors’ but especially what worked and didn’t work. The functionality of many expensive bags does not work. I want the bag to be useful too so I was ready.
DAISY: How did your upbringing around such breathtaking jewelry affect how you approach the design of a handbag?
LB: Growing up as part of this creative family was the best education of all. My father was an architect who went into the family business. His attention to detail was a way of life, not just a way to do business. He wouldn’t sit down to eat until everything was aesthetically in order, set with perfect linens, the family silver – very formal, very elegant, no slouching at the table. He taught me to be sensitive to colors, shapes and quality. I observed a strong work ethic, keen attention to detail and never settling for second rate ingredients of any kind. They were able to see the beauty in a raw material — be it a precious stone or a metal and then had the ability to transform them into one of a kind, handmade jewels.
DAISY: What unique experiences did you have with your father that impacted you in regards to quality and design?
LB: As a young girl in New York, at the Buccellati store, I would play in the safe, which was the size of a small room. I would open the little drawers and would discover something new every day. My father would describe what each stone was, the quality. There were collections of diamonds and other precious stones that were to be set in jewelry and also were inventory for the store. That process was very important.
DAISY: What are the steps from your initial idea to construction in Italy to a finished handbag?
LB: It’s complex! I rough out my initial ideas and I refine the sketches from there. A three-dimensional cardboard model is made from the sketch, much like a muslin toile for a couture gown and I get to work on it, trim it down for size or shape the corners – it’s like sculpture, to create ‘bones’ of the bag and see what it feels like. Do the proportions work? The shape and size. Then comes the next version in a firm canvas, then if that works, it gets tested on actual real skins.
DAISY: Sounds intricate, like assembling something like a Maserati.
LB: Exactly! That process is necessary to maintain this high level of quality. Some skins do not lend themselves to a very big or very small bag. It’s so exciting to follow each step of the production. It’s very old school, like it’s been done for hundreds of years. I really don’t feel like I’m working.
DAISY: Why did you choose to go this lengthy, much more difficult route instead of faster, automated production?
LB: Because a handcrafted bag has quality that stands the test of time, decades really. When stitches are hand done they wear better. Many other leather goods don’t last because we live in a disposable world. Even a $3000 bag will fall apart and I don’t believe that it should. If you’re paying good money for something, it should last a long time.
DAISY: Why did you choose exotic skins?
LB: Because they reflect the variety of nature in a perfect way. This is true luxury as each one is a unique fingerprint and not a “cookie cutter” design. The thought that each piece was handcrafted exclusively by Mother Nature and not stamped by a machine is a concept that is not commonly found in the fashion world today. They are still intact and beautiful and stylish. They were constructed to be a forever bag. Emulating this timeless charm is my goal.
DAISY: How is creating a luxury product different?
LB: It means having a long-term relationship and respect for an item. It’s how I grew up. Luxury was never a fleeting, seasonal thing. I have done my best to use these concepts in my own designs. The Italian artisans that I have attained are trained for years before they are able to cut into a skin or sew one stitch. Much like the dedicated artisans that work for my family, they are committed to a lifelong pursuit of hand made excellence. Some people confuse luxury and quality with expensive trends. It’s not the same thing.
DAISY: How did growing up with some of the finest jewelry in the world influence your handbag designs?
LB: I paid special attention to the clasps and hardware. Multiple layers of metal are applied and all hardware on the bags is solid and of the highest quality. The clasps function perfectly, they stay closed and open easily when you need them to, and will not tarnish or lose their color. They will last forever.
DAISY: What’s next?
LB: This collection is only a small expression of my style and personality. It will be a permanent feature in the line. The next collection will specifically include options for a larger bag that can go from day to evening and will address the more casual part of life. Creating a legacy piece is what I believe is to be true luxury. This is what my family has been able to achieve with their timeless pieces of art.
Prices range from $3,250 for a Cleo clutch in French Calf to $19,500 for an Odessa in crocodile. Info@laurabuccellati.com
The collection is on display and available by appointment at:
Jennifer Boin Private Jeweler 305-448-2129
The Offices at Merrick Park 4425 Ponce de Leon Blvd. Ste 240, Coral Gables, FL
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